Contemporary Turkish representations of 15th and 16th Century Ottoman clothing, with references
I. Some images from an 16th century album, unfortunately reproduced in black and white. These images are taken from Life in Istanbul 1588, Scenes from a traveller's picture book, published in 1977 by the Bodleian Library (Bodleian Picture Book no. 15). The originals are part of MS. Bodl. Or 430:1588 (no, I have not included all pages from the publication!). The booklet isn't all that common (which is why I am including some of the images here), although a good library can obtain it for you via interlibrary loan. Beginning in the 16th century such album books portraying the costumes of various people of the Ottoman Empire became popular among Europeans eager to learn more about their feared "new" neighbors to the east. If you reside in the SCA's Kingdom of Atlantia, contact me if you would like to see this book at an event.
English Eunuch & a Deaf-mute Kapici basi & Janissary Two images of Turkish women Christian lady & Orthodox Priest Christian man & Muslim Hoca
Hasan Aga and a Deaf-mute from the palace (images 9 & 10) -According to the description of the plates, Hasan Aga was an English eunuch, born Samson Rowlie in Great Yarmouth (Norfolk County). He was captured off Algiers sometime before 1580, and ended up Uluj Hasan's treasurer. His clothes are described as silver and mauve brocade with a golden sash, covered by a caftan of scarlet broadcloth lined with blue. This is f. 47r in the MS. The deaf-mute (dilsiz) was one of the sultan's most trusted servants. Yes, they were deliberately made deaf and mute. He is seen on f. 50r.
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Kapici basi and Janissary (images 10 & 11) -The Kapici basi was the chief of the palace gate guards. The image of the Janissary provides a nice counterpart to the earlier drawing by Bellini. Folios 59r and 65r, respectively. Janissaries were "recruited" as children, from the non urban and non Muslim populations. This levy of children (who were forced to convert to Islam) also provided a pool of future palace and administrative officials, and women for the Sultan's harem. At least one late period valide sultan was the daughter of a Greek priest (now I'm going to have to go look that up again, as my memory's failing me on the exact reference...sigh)
Two images of Turkish women -On the left is an image of a Turkish woman in public, and on the right she is at home, without veil or overcoat. Note the deep keyhole neckline on her yelek. I have often heard criticisms that SCA Turkish garb should not have this type of neckline, but here's proof that it is appropriate to period. Folios 90r and 99r, respectively.
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Christian (Greek?) lady, and Greek Orthodox Priest The image describes the woman as being from Galata, so she could be a "Frankish" woman rather than a Greek. However, as the description of plates notes that her clothing is predominantly blue, and her clothing is more eastern in look than Italian, she could well be a Greek rather than an Italian. A legal ruling of about this time required Greek women to wear blue trousers. For their part, Orthodox priests were the only Greeks allowed to wear untrimmed beards. Folios 105r and 123r, respectively.
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Christian man and Muslim Hoca. -This man, also labeled as being from Galata, wears very westernized clothing. His robe is blue, and the overcoat lined with ermine. The hoca is described as "a learned man of Islam" and he wears green (a sacred color forbidden to Christians to wear). His robe is pink and gold, his boots red, and his prayer beads are black. Folios 126r and 133r, respectively.
II. Some images from BL Or.2709 (f. 2v, 11v & 28v), an album produced in the Ottoman Empire or Tabriz circa 1600. Well, the BM decided I should pay a rediculously high licensing fee to use the images I wanted, so instead, you'll need to follow this link, and search under "Ottoman". On the plus side, there are more images from the manuscript on display there than I'd intended to include here!